Sunday 1 June 2014

Saturday 31 May 2014 - Viareggio

Well, we must have had a worse night on the boat, but I can’t remember one.  The boat rocked and bucked back and forth all night and in the morning it was even worse.  Not only that but the weather has turned nasty.  It is very dark and cloudy and it clearly has been raining.  Not only that but on looking outside we find that one of our lines snapped in the night!  It was the one acting as a spring on the port side of the boat.  It was an old warp, but useful and we will find ourselves at a loss without it.

We want to wait to see the boatman who helped us get in yesterday.  Richard is convinced we have to pay him for the night’s mooring.  He finally comes, and confirms there is nothing to pay and he refused to take a tip for his help. 

By now the weather is worse.  It is pouring with rain.  I am still worried about the anchor being fouled.  So I am anxious not to go until there is someone about who can help us if there is any problem.  The rain finally abates a bit, so we decide to set off.  Next problem is that another of the lines has been destroyed.  It nearly wore through on our own cleat.  So now we need two new lines.  Not exactly a free night after we take that expenditure into account!

We do get away without problem.  The anchor was well set, but came up without mishap.  And in the drizzle we set out.  We are both wearing our new light rainwear.  So we shall see how that works. 

The sea is bumpy, but I had to take a pill just to cope with our mooring, so I am fine.  The rain comes and goes. At first there is no wind, and what little there is is on the nose.  So we are motoring.  We go past the other 4 villages that make up the cinque terre.  They all look very cute.  After a while the wind improves and goes up to 8 knots so we try to sail.  But it is slow going and we go back to motor.  We change our plans several times.  We were just going to go to the next port, Lerici, in the Gulf of Spezia. That was only ten miles away.  But we decide that even in this rotten weather we can go further than that. We therefore travel on to Viareggio.  We know nothing about the place, but it is a convenient stop, thirty five miles from our last port.  And we are now in Tuscany!

As we approach Viareggio, the weather improves wonderfully.  It is now sunny and quite warm. The marina is very welcoming and has all necessary facilities.  The harbour master is delightful.  He explains to us that we don’t need a pass key to the pontoon, because the locks are broken and we can just enter by pushing a button on the inside of the lock.  He just shrugs and says “you are in Italy”.

The marina is on the start of a canal which goes up into the town.  We have a walk around the town and it is really nice.  It is the weekend, so there are lots of people around and the town has a real buzz.  There are elegant shops and lots of stall selling anything from the usual junk to very interesting food stuffs.  We never really had any lunch.  All we managed was a cuppa soup under way.  So at one stall we buy a Mozzarella in Carrozza.  Something I always wanted to try.  It is a breaded and deep fried sandwich with Mozzarella cheese.  Very nice too.

We have looked in the Michelin guide and find that this town has 2 one rosette restaurants.  But they both look very pricy and probably would be booked up on a Saturday night.  So we decide instead to try to go  a lesser ranked restaurant on the top floor of an hotel with a lovely view over the sea.  We book a table and then continue to look around the town.  We find a supermarket to stock up on a few more things to have lunches and dinners on board, because we are not sure where we will be in the next few days.  We may be just at anchor in remote places.


Back to the boat with barely enough time to change and go out again.  Dinner is much better than I expected.  The food is really interesting.  My desert is described as bread, wine and sugar, and is that, but in the most interesting way.  I would love to have had the recipe.  Back to the boat, where I just conk out.  Too much weather, food and booze I guess.

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