Wednesday 18 June 2014

Wednesday 18 June 2014 - Spalmatore, Isola Maddalena

We have decided that we have really done everything we want to do here, so we will move on.  The weather seems lovely, with a clear blue sky, but there is some wind.  Richard checks the weather forecast on the internet and it says it will be sunny with a force 4 wind, no gusts and only .5m swell.  So we will start to explore the Maddelena Islands and the national park.

We do some last minute shopping and then off we go.  We must first find a port where we can buy a license to stay in the National Park.  We know there is a place in La Maddalena, where we stayed the other day, but we would prefer to go somewhere different.  So we go to a little port on the mainland called Palau.  We enter the port and we don’t want a proper berth because we only want to stay for about half an hour.  I call up the harbour office on the radio and luckily find a lady who speaks quite good English.  She directs us to an alongside berth right next to the town.  There is even someone to help us take lines and tie up. 

Richard goes and gets our permit and then persuades me to join him in a giant ice cream.  It is hot enough and we won’t get any lunch for a while.

So we set off to the islands.  But minor disaster strikes as we leave our mooring.  Richard shouts to me to see what is wrong with the dinghy, which we have been towing behind the boat.  I suddenly realise that it is floating away.  I rush to get a boat hook to try to retrieve it.  I can see what has happened.  The painter (for those who don’t speak ‘Nautical’- that is the rope which attaches the dinghy to the boat) has gone under the boat and has been cut by the rope cutter on our propeller.  So it has floated free.  Richard does a good job getting the boat to the dinghy and I manage to grab what is left of the painter with the boat hook and we re-attach it to the boat.  But we will need a new painter.

So now we are really off. The plan is to stop for a swim and some lunch and then to go off elsewhere for the night.  So we make our way to Isola Caprera.  Of course it is now after noon and so the wind has got up. It is behind us and we are sailing nicely on just Genoa, but it is strong.  At times it hits a force 6!  This is not what the forecast predicted and not what we want for a day an anchor.  We find the bay we were heading for.  It is still blowing quite strong.  The wind in the bay is only about half of what it was out in the channel, but it is still very windy and the boat is rocking a bit.  I am freezing.  I have to put on a long sleeved top.  I don’t understand the people in the boats next to us.  They are skinny dipping in the water!

Although the anchorage is nice, it isn’t that comfortable and there seem to be dark clouds coming.  I am certain I can hear thunder.  So we revert to plan A and proceed up to the east side of Maddalena Island where Richard is sure there will be more shelter and there are supposed to be buoys to pick up, which will be more secure for the night.

The trip is only 6 miles, but it is not nice.  It is now blowing a 5 gusting 6 and it is on the nose.  There is a lot of spray and we have to put up the spray hood.  I am so cold I have put on long trousers and a fleece!  The sky is going very dark.  When we get to the bay, we see the mooring buoys and then someone comes out in a rib and tells us it is a private bay and we have to pay 30 euro for the night.  We are pretty sure this is a con, but we have no choice.  The weather is definitely closing in and we need a secure place for the night.  So we pay up and he helps us get our lines on the mooring buoy. 


Almost as soon as we settle down the rain starts.  There is thunder and lightning.  Some other boats arrive in this mess and all are in full rain gear.  We did manage to get here just in time.  We are told that the winds might be quite strong tomorrow, so we are not sure what we will do.  It is a shame, because this is lovely bay with a nice beach and it would be nice to stay and swim. 

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