Friday 12 September 2014

Thursday 11 September 2014 - Amalfi

This has been a long and eventful day.  So much so that I am now writing this entry on Friday.  We left Castellammare fairly early in the morning.  We did not expect there to be any wind and Richard was not even going to bother to take the covers off the mainsail.  But after only half an hour or so the wind got right up to 11knots.  So finally we could put both sails up and actually sail!  It is great.  We have between 11 and 15 knots of wind and a pleasant sea.  The only problem is that the wind is not entirely in the right direction.  We have decided to go to Amalfi.  Richard has phoned one of the pontoon holders and reserved us a space, so we don’t have to hurry.  Therefore we sail as close to the wind as we can, which in effect takes us on a large tack nearly to Capri.  We are making good progress along the coast on this tack and Richard reckons that we are only going about 1 mile out of our way.   Each time we approach a new headland the wind shifts in our favour.  But after three hours of nice sailing (we have been doing about 5 knots, not as good as earlier in the season, probably because the hull has got dirty with weed on it) we have to go about to head towards Amalfi.  At first we think the wind is just enough off the nose to make progress, but it soon becomes clear that this is not the case.  Tacking will take us far too long to get there, so in comes the genoa and on goes the motor again.

I make us lunch under way.  As we are clearing up the lunch things we notice a very tall cumulous cloud ahead with a very black bottom.  That is a typical thunder storm cloud.  As I watch it I can see the rain coming out and I think I see a few lightning strikes.  We are headed right towards it, so we are getting prepared to get caught.  We take down the main, while it is still fairly calm.  And we wait.  After about two hours we think we have got away with it.  The cloud was going in the same direction as us and perhaps a speed of just over what we were doing.  Then it seems to have dissipated.  Maybe we can get to Amalfi without getting caught in rain.

Well we were not so lucky.  The storm I saw was not the problem.  Another storm came up from behind and half an hour out of port it started to rain.  It really wasn’t so bad (the bimini helps), but a shame it could not wait.

We get into port a little soggy.  This port is another one with many different people running different parts of the harbour.  We are not sure who is the person we have booked with.  One man comes up to us in a rib and is about to take us to his pontoon when he realizes the boat behind us is waiting for him.  He directs us to someone else.  We telephone the person we booked with and find he is the same one the other man directed us to.  We are taken to a berth on a wall just inside the harbour.  I am very unhappy about the berth.  It is a very high wall with a ledge sticking out.  We cannot use our passerelle and instead are given a long plank.  But the angle at which it must be is too frightening for me and I won’t get off the boat.  So eventually we are moved to another pontoon, with the help of a nice young man who speaks some English.  This is better in that the pontoon is low and we can use the passerelle.  The problem with this is that it has no electricity.  Also this whole harbour is uncomfortable.  It has no protection from the open sea and is really nothing more that a deep bay.  A swell is coming in all the time and it is rocking all the boats about.  I am beginning to feel peculiar.  So I want to get off the boat.

Richard tells me to look up restaurants here and low and behold I find a one Michelin star place.  Richard suggests he books and then we go off the boat to use the showers (which we are told are on the shore).  He gets a reservation to the restaurant, having found that it is not far from the boat.  I am a bit surprised about that, but we must have luck sometimes.

We go off to shower and discover that the so called showers are nothing more than a rank of 3 shower heads in the open air without any cubicles.  I have no idea how anyone is supposed to want to use them.  So we shower on board and even with the rocking I am able to put some makeup on. 

Off we go to the town, which is delightful.  It is all little houses and shops going along a valley and up a hill.  We spot what I think is the restaurant easily, but Richard says I have got the wrong place.  We have a nice walk around looking at what there is on offer and then have a lovely dinner, if a bit large.  After two heavy courses they brought out a huge pot of fish soup made with shellfish.  I could only eat about 2/3 of it!

So feeling a lot better we make our way back to the boat.  When we get there we can see the passerelle is not set up properly.  It is much too high up.  We think the pontoon men have been adjusting things.  Richard just manages to get on board and tries to lower the bridge.  However when I get on it real disaster strikes.  The whole thing collapses under me.  The end attached to the boat has come undone and the bridge is hanging vertically into the water.  I am hanging on to two ropes which hold it up and that is all that is stopping me from going in the water.  I do not know how long I can hand on to the ropes.  Richard is trying to do something with the bridge, but it seems like ages and nothing happens.  Finally the ropes sway me towards the boat and I am able to grab on to a rope on the pushpit and get myself on the bathing platform, from where I can safely climb on to the boat.  Neither Richard nor I understand how I did that and why I didn’t fall in the water.  I am safe, but the passerelle isn’t.  When it came detached from the boat a part that holds it in to the boat came out and went into the water.  I thought about trying to grab it as it fell, but that would have made me fall in.  So we just watch it sink to the bottom.  This is going to be a big problem, because the passerelle is not secure without this piece and really cannot be used.  Another thing to worry about.

By the time I get inside the boat I am rather shaken up as you can imagine.  I have no energy to do anything but go to bed.  Just as we start to get ready for bed it starts to rain!  Given that we had dinner outside on a balcony in the restaurant and the adventure of the collapsing passerelle,  we are surprised we got away with the rain only starting after we are safely in the boat.

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