Wednesday 24 September 2014

Tuesday 23 September 2014 - Lipari

We had a comfortable night’s sleep.  The predicted thunderstorms never materialised.  The day has started hot and sunny.  We decide we ought to find out about the town, so we dress in our lightest clothes and start off to walk to town.  The pilot book says there is a bus you can take, but we find no sign of a bus stop.  After a few minutes we realise that the only way in to town is to walk along the main road, which has no pavement.  Neither of us is keen.  So after only 10 minutes we decide to leave the marina and find a berth in the town.  We are told in the pilot book that the main disadvantage of the town berths is that there is a swell coming in which together with the ferries coming and going mean that the boat rocks around a lot and it is not comfortable.  But given the seemingly benign conditions we will give it a go.

Like many other of these ports, the berthing is on individual pontoons run by different people.  We haven’t a clue which one to go to, so when we get to the first and a man waves us in, we go there.  It is a pleasant enough spot.  There are no showers or toilets, but that is par for the course with these single pontoons.  It does have water and electricity and when we arrive there is not too much swell and it seems comfortable enough.  It also has free wifi, but we find that we don’t need it because the signal is still strong from the marina we left!

It is not in the centre of town, but very close and that will mean it will be a bit quieter.  So we dress and go in to sus out the town.  I find plenty of shops to buy food and things we need and indeed there is quite a large well-stocked supermarket in the middle of the town.  It is like many of these towns.  There is the more modern part (say 1700-1800’s) and then there is the ancient bits up a hill. So in the heat of the day (Mad Dogs and Englishman like) we walk up.  There is a large cathedral with a very ancient Norman cloister and some very old Greco /Roman ruins- which are just foundations really.  There are lots of touristy and jewellery shops, but I’m not buying.  We do however find the restaurant recommended in the Red Guide, so we make a booking for this evening. 

Back to the lower town where we have a light lunch and then shop in the supermarket, where I buy much more than I planned.  We note a lot of boats go out just for the day presumably to anchor and swim, but we haven’t done that.  May we should do more like that, but we worry about finding a berth when we get back in the evening.  However, here that is no problem.  Back on the boat we watch the staff trying (without much success) to lure boats to this pontoon.  After such a hot day, it is a disappointment that the sky clouds over and it gets quite cool.  We were going to have another go at washing the boat and spray each other at the same time, but that isn’t so appealing in this weather.


By the time we need to get ready to go to dinner the weather has badly deteriorated.  There is a significant swell coming into the harbour and the boat is moving about most uncomfortably.  Then the thunder and lightening starts and it is raining - 24 hours later than forecast!  Nonetheless we are off to the restaurant where we have an excellent fish dinner.  Then back to the boat, where the motion is really bad.  I have no stomach or desire to do anything, but take a sea sick pill and go to bed, which is just what happened.

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